 
Cabbage is in season all year round in Germany and has played an important role in the diet of the Germanic tribes and Romans. Its high vitamin C and mineral content make it a healthy food that can be used in many different ways. Find out here how best to plant, care for and harvest the different types of cabbage in your own garden.
All cabbage vegetables originally come from smaller wild forms. These wild cabbage species still grow today in coastal areas on the Mediterranean or even on Heligoland. Like daikon, radishes, turnips, mustard and rapeseed, cabbage belongs to the cruciferous family (Brassicaceae). The vegetable cabbage (Brassica oleracea) was already a valued useful and even medicinal plant among the Germanic tribes and Romans. In the Middle Ages, cabbage was regarded as the "medicine of the poor" because, as we know today, cabbage contains plenty of vitamin C, minerals and antibacterial mustard oil glycosides. Whether cooked, fermented or raw: cabbage is a vegetable that you can enjoy all year round in Germany!
 
    Cabbage spares no expense or effort in its diversity: thanks to different varieties, the focus is always on different parts of the plant.
Cabbage grows best in full sun, but can also cope with partial shade. Almost all types of cabbage are Heavy Feeders and therefore require plenty of nutrients for healthy growth. The only exceptions are kohlrabi and radishes as medium feeders. Turnips prefer nutrient-poor soils. Cabbage thrives best in humus-rich, loose and loamy soil. Even watering ensures strong and healthy growth.
 
    You can proceed in a similar way with all types of head cabbage such as red cabbage, white cabbage, pointed cabbage and savoy cabbage. If you want to harvest in May, you should start pre-growing in January. Head cabbage, kohlrabi, cauliflower, broccoli and Brussels sprouts can also be pre-grown in February and March. It is best to choose suitable early varieties for this. Place the seeds 3 cm/1.2 in deep in pots or multi-plates filled with potting compost. For germination, cabbage plants require a germination temperature of approx. 16 - 20 °C/60.8 - 68 °F as well as sufficient light and moisture. It is therefore best to place the pots on a windowsill or in a heated greenhouse. From March, you can plant out cabbage varieties with a planting distance of approx. 40 x 40 cm/15.7 x 15.7 in. From April, broccoli, cauliflower, kohlrabi and Brussels sprouts can also be planted out. Be sure to cover the sensitive young plants with fleece at night to prevent them from freezing.
Later summer varieties of head cabbage can be sown directly into the bed from April to early May. Kale can be sown from May to June. Chinese cabbage is sown from mid-June, while pak choi is not sown until July. Some varieties of pointed cabbage can also be sown until the end of August. When sowing in midsummer, however, it is essential to ensure regular watering so that the seeds germinate reliably and the young plants can develop healthily. Protect the cabbage plants with a fleece in the fall so that you can harvest them in winter. You should prick out the young plants about a month after sowing. These later varieties need a little more space than earlier ones. Therefore, ensure a planting distance of 50 x 50 cm/19.7 x 19.7 in.
In a classic succesion cropping, cabbage should always be the first crop to be planted on your bed. You can then plant medium-income crops such as lettuce, chard, carrots, onions, beet or beans. Good intercropping partners are spinach, chard, carrots, potatoes, eggplants, tomatoes, peppers, peas, beans, cucumbers or leeks. Bad companions are other cruciferous plants, as well as onions, garlic and strawberries. You can find everything you need to know about Cabbage in Mixed Cultivation With Good and Bad Companion Plants as Well as Tips on Crop Rotation in this article.
For inspiration, we have already prepared planting plans with cabbage. Here you will find ideas for a small balcony bed, greenhouse or a bed in the garden.
 
            With our bed planner, you can easily plan a colourful mixed crop. Good and bad neighbors are displayed directly and you get tips on crop rotation.
Plan Your Bed NowAs heavy feeders, most types of cabbage require a lot of nutrients for healthy and vigorous growth. Before planting, you should prepare your beds with mature manure or a compost-manure mixture. An additional dose of compost in the planting hole also boosts growth. You can also use horn shavings or sheep's wool (pellets) to provide long-term fertilization in the bed. A layer of mulch provides humus and retains moisture and warmth in the bed. Plant dips promote head formation. It is best not to use nettle liquid manure as this can attract the cabbage white butterfly! Also ensure that your plants are watered evenly.
 
    In most cases, early cab bage varieties are suitable for fresh consumption, while late varieties are more suitable for storage. Late cabbages can be stored in airy wooden crates in a cool, dark cellar. Choose only undamaged heads and cover the crates with a jute or cotton cloth. Check the crates regularly for rot or mold. You can also Overwinter Some Types of Cabbage, Such as Savoy Cabbage, Kale and Butter Cabbage, in the Field. This means you always have freshly harvested vegetables to hand in winter.
To harvest head cabbage, cut off the stalk in a wedge shape. Green and black cab bage can be harvested after the first frost. Brussels sprouts are ready to harvest when the florets are about the size of a walnut. Pak choi and kohlrabi are particularly fast and can be harvested just six to eight weeks after sowing. As varied as the types of cabbage are, there are just as many ways to prepare cabbage. Fried, steamed, raw, boiled, baked in the oven or fermented as sauerkraut or kimchi: cabbage can be enjoyed in many different ways.
To prevent pests, a cultivation break of at least three years should be observed between cruciferous plants. In the event of disease infestation, this should be extended to five to six years.
 
    I hope this has whetted your appetite for growing cabbage in the garden. If you have any questions or comments, please write to us at [email protected].
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Cover picture: congerdesign on Pixabay
 
                Isabell studies agricultural sciences and loves to be surprised by nature and its complexity again and again. Herbs - whether gathered wild or in the garden - are her passion.
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I'm trying my hand at postelein and lamb's lettuce for the first year. Hopefully the postelein looks okay, but the lamb's lettuce doesn't really want to. I'm still growing both in propagation trays. I started this on September 29th. The Postelein has already been outside for about 10 days (still in growing plates). The plan is to plant it out this weekend. The lamb's lettuce was pre-grown indoors. This also germinated within the normal period. Since then, however, only a few more leaves have been added to the cotyledons. I keep it indoors between 15°C and 19°C in a south-facing window. I've also tried putting it outside (maybe 15-19 is too warm after all?). But nothing happened there either. I always keep it moist, but not soaking wet. Do you have any tips? Am I just too impatient? Am I too late with this? Am I doing basic things wrong? Maybe I'm not alone in this situation.
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This week I finally made it back to the garden. The leaf list is already full of mulch for next year, and the trees are still full of leaves. A few weeks ago, I had already built a small hedgehog castle in the basement made of bricks and a sturdy cover plate on the 'first floor' and covered it with some brushwood. I really hope that no hedgehogs live here, because our backyard is in the middle of the city, almost completely enclosed and the individual plots are neatly fenced in with wire mesh. I dare to doubt whether there is enough food here, and the fences are a nasty trap. But if there is one, at least it has a nice quiet, sheltered den. I imagine the entrance was also a little flat and I'll keep an eye on it. Who knows if and who has moved in. In any case, all the foliage will provide good warmth, as some of it will probably have rotted by spring and give off heat accordingly. The nice thing about the box is that it holds as many leaves as would otherwise lie loose in a pile three times the size. You can stuff quite a lot in there so that there is enough mulch until next summer. In addition to the flowers, the cats always like to sit on it and keep watch. 😺 I've also put some cuttings from the sweet potatoes, a shrub basil and a variegated nettle in the stairwell as a trial. It's relatively cool and bright there. As the basil and nettle both unexpectedly survived a light frost two weeks ago, I'm hoping that they can be overwintered after all, although that's not supposed to work with basil. If it doesn't work, I can always dispose of them. Have you ever tried this with sweet potatoes and basil? LG Max
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I picked up the sweet potatoes today. I wanted to make it clear again why I'm doing this. The cut surfaces are now clean and dry and no mold has formed. So they can keep in storage until May! 🙋♂️
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What location and soil does cabbage prefer?
Cabbage grows best in full sun to semi-shady locations on humus-rich, loose and loamy soil.
How and when should cabbage be planted?
For an early harvest, pre-breeding of head cabbage varieties should begin in January. Planting then takes place from March/April with a spacing of 50x50 cm, depending on the variety.
What is the optimal care and fertilization for cabbage?
As a heavy eater, cabbage needs a lot of nutrients. Beds should be prepared with mature manure or compost before planting. Mulching and even watering are also important.
When and how is cabbage harvested?
The harvest time depends on the variety. Early varieties are suitable for fresh consumption, late varieties for storage. Head cabbage is cut off the stalk in a wedge shape.
How do you prevent diseases and pests in cabbage?
A cultivation break of at least three years between cruciferous plants and the use of protective nets against cabbage white butterflies are effective measures.