Winter purslane is a vitamin-rich leaf lettuce that is ideal as a winter crop. It can be harvested throughout the winter and thus always brings fresh greens into the kitchen. Despite its valuable ingredients, it has been somewhat forgotten, but that can change! In this article, you can find out everything you need to know about growing and caring for it.
Winter purslane (Claytonia perfoliata) is an annual, hardy herb from the Montiaceae family. Some people also know it by the names of winter purslane, common pigeon pea or cubic spinach. It is very rich in omega-3 fatty acids and minerals such as magnesium, calcium and iron. It also contains more vitamin C than lemons.
You can easily recognize it by its characteristic round to slightly pointed leaves. In spring, it also bears small white to light pink flowers, which are also edible. Over time, it forms a bushy rosette, so you should ensure sufficient spacing when planting. It grows to a height of around 15 - 30 cm/5.9 - 11.8 in.
Winter purslane originally comes from the Pacific region of North America. Over time, it spread to Mexico and Cuba and eventually found its way to Europe. Despite the similar name, it should not be confused with summer purslane, which is not hardy and needs plenty of sun and warmth.
Winter purslane is very undemanding in cultivation and is also suitable for growing in balcony boxes and smaller containers. It has no particular light requirements; a shady to semi-shady spot is perfectly adequate. Due to its low light requirement and good ground cover properties, it is ideal for planting under trees. Its bushy growth habit also helps to suppress wild herbs in winter.
Winter purslane grows best in loose, humus-rich soil. However, it is also suitable for sandy soils with an even water supply. As a low-growing plant, it only needs a few nutrients, so you don't need to apply additional fertilizer. On the contrary, the substrate should not be too rich in nutrients, similar to spinach.
The Montiaceae plant family doesn't really play a role in the kitchen garden, which is why winter purslane is ideal for healthy succession cropping. It is an ideal succeeding crop for all summer vegetables and can be used very well to fill gaps in the bed. The soil can recover over the winter while being protected by the fresh herbs. Due to its low requirements, it can also be combined well with heavy feeders such as cabbage. There are no known good or bad companion plants, so you can simply experiment with different mixed crops.
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You can either sow winter purslane directly into the bed or pre-grow it in pots. When growing in pots, use 1 - 3 seeds per pot to create particularly bushy seedlings. The pot does not need to be particularly large; standard-sized or smaller pots are ideal.
However, to ensure that the hardy plants germinate, temperatures should not exceed 12 ° C/54 ° F. Temperatures between 4 - 8 ° C/39 - 46 ° F are better. However, if temperatures fall permanently below 5 ° C/41 ° F, it will stop growing. As soon as it gets warmer again, however, it will start to sprout diligently. If temperatures are too low, purslane will stop growing, but it can survive at temperatures as low as - 20 ° C/- 4 ° F. However, if you want it to continue growing in winter, you should protect it from the cold. To do this, you can cover the bed with spruce branches or breathable foil, for example. It is also very suitable for growing in cold frames or (mini) greenhouses.
The optimum time for sowing is from September to March, depending on the temperature. Cover the seeds only thinly with soil, 0.5 - 1 cm/0.2 - 0.4 in is sufficient. The first seeds should start to germinate after about two weeks. When sowing in the bed, you can either scatter the seeds in a wide cube or make rows 10 - 20 cm/3.9 - 7.9 in apart.
If the individual plants are too dense after sowing, you should separate them to 10 - 20 cm/3.9 - 7.9 in. Pull out the smallest plants during the first harvest so that the rest can spread out better. The individual plants grow quickly in width, making use of the available space and covering the ground.
Otherwise, winter purslane is very easy to care for. It doesn't need any additional fertilizer and practically grows on its own. Just make sure that the substrate remains evenly moist. A layer of mulch can help to keep the soil moist and can also improve the aroma.
The robust winter lettuce is not very susceptible to diseases. Occasionally, snails can attack it due to a lack of food alternatives. A slug fence can help with severe slug problems. In near-natural gardens, however, snails usually have sufficient wild herbs at their disposal and spare the purslane. If slugs do become a problem, you can find More Tips on Slug Control and Prevention here.
Only about 6 - 8 weeks pass between sowing and harvesting. Cut the first leaves as soon as the plants are about 10 cm/3.9 in tall. You can harvest the healthy leafy vegetables from November to April. The plants are cut up to six times over the winter, they grow back again and again in the middle of the rosette (= heart). The only important thing is that the heart remains undamaged!
Winter purslane starts to flower atthe end of March or beginning of April. The delicate white flowers are also edible and can be used to decorate salads and soups. However, you should not cut the plants after flowering, as they can develop a bitter aroma.
Winter purslane has a fresh, nutty and slightly sour taste. With its mild aromas, it refines herb butter and quark. You can also use it for decorative salads, soups or green smoothies. This all-rounder can also be used as a substitute for spinach. It has many uses in a varied cuisine and invites you to experiment. There are no limits to your creativity! Winter purslane tastes best when eaten fresh. It will keep for around 5 - 7 days in a plastic container in the fridge.
Winter purslane is a self-pollinator, it does not need insects to form fertile seeds. You have several options during seed formation:
Winter purslane is a real all-rounder and is slowly becoming popular again with amateur gardeners. I hope I was able to get you excited about this little vitamin bomb too! If you have any questions or comments, please write to us at [email protected].
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Annabell is studying agricultural biology at the University of Hohenheim. She also enjoys gardening in her private life, spends a lot of time in nature and loves to be creative.
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Hello again! Last year, I gave up on everything here in frustration because I couldn't get to grips with my supposed Superfryd: I have a round vegetable garden and am still convinced of Gertrud Franck's row crop rotation method, which I have been successfully using and experimenting with for decades, so I can't put it on screen here. For example, how can I add a path to a large round bed 10 m in diameter (my vegetable garden)? It's practically impossible because I can't change the level between the bed and the path. The path remains hidden under the round bed area... If that were possible, it would be much easier for me to draw my "basic framework" here. This is because dragging and dropping vegetable rows often works well (except when, according to the authors, something is not compatible, as I have planned some "pre/post-crops" to be shorter or longer than planned here). In fact, the cultivation plan here is also limited to certain weeks in terms of pre/post-cultivation and so on! Or do I live in an exotic region? Why can't it be programmed for any length of time? The idea of reading the plan as pre-crop/main crop and post-crop is brilliant, but it didn't work with my crops recently! - I also have "permanent crops" in some places - that doesn't work either, because it's not provided for here. Because I already have some crops (including green manure) from the previous year or they are beyond the maximum/minimum time (duration) stored here in the bed, and I wanted to enter the next one right away—it didn't work at all. In addition, I move the rows only 20 cm each year, but I don't always plant them identically to the previous year. There were also problems with my green manure or previous crop. It kept flashing or I got error messages... I thought that by purchasing a permanent subscription last year, my years of hard work to generate a personal database for faster annual planning would come to a successful end. Unfortunately, I am still looking for the best way to manage my vegetable rows electronically. I'm not very familiar with databases, and the data has to be entered correctly in order to get the desired result. Just recording my crops/seeds that are suitable for A, B, C, or several of these rows at the same time is an almost impossible task for me. It seemed so logical and simple after watching your promotional video. I actually believed I had found the solution! Well, what can/should I do now? Persevere and wait forever until something optimal has been developed in 10 years' time, or write off the investment? Does anyone have any useful tips for me? You can see the clumsy construction of my "beds," which aren't really beds. But I had no other way of placing my shifted rows in the bed. But I can't even draw in my actual footpaths (Miscanthus)! This would save me a lot of drawing and writing on paper when I move or replace rows or fill in gaps... Best regards, Helene
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So the yard would be cleared before the big thaw comes, and now I'm devoting myself to this little treasure 😇
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Winter purslane is a vitamin-rich leaf lettuce, ideal for winter cultivation, which can be harvested between November and April.
It prefers a semi-shady to shady location, loose soil with a low nutrient content and temperatures between 4 - 8 °C.
Does winter purslane fit into a mixed crop?
Yes, it is compatible with all vegetables and is ideal for growing summer vegetables.
How do you care for winter purslane?
It requires even moisture, and plants should be spaced out if sown densely. Mulching helps to retain moisture.
How do you harvest and use winter purslane?
It is harvested 6-8 weeks after sowing by cutting the leaves, leaving the heart untouched. It can be used fresh in salads, soups or as a spinach substitute.