A special feature of old varieties is that the plants produce open-pollinated seed. This means that their seeds are suitable for replanting. You can collect the seeds yourself and sow them again the following year. You can also give the seeds away at a seed exchange or in your neighborhood. This article will give you an overview of how to obtain seeds of old vegetable varieties. Propagation is not easy and there are a few things to bear in mind.
Once you have found a variety that you particularly like, you can produce your own seeds for reproduction or exchange. First of all, you should know that propagating varieties is not the same as preserving them. In order to preserve a variety with its unique characteristics, conservation breeding is required. The aim of conservation breeding is to preserve variety-specific characteristics such as shape, color, growth and taste. No genetic material from other varieties may be crossed in. Such conservation breeding is often not feasible in an allotment garden because it requires large stocks (500 to 1000 plants) and a great deal of expertise. Otherwise, genetic erosion or inbreeding can occur.
Nevertheless, you can try your hand at growing your own seeds of your favorite plants. You can easily do this a few times. After a few years, however, you should obtain new seeds from a conservation initiative in order to obtain true-to-type seeds again. You can read About the Conservation Initiatives for Old Varieties and More About Old Varieties here.
Overall, it is incredibly important that you inform yourself well in advance about which plant you are dealing with and what there is to consider for each crop! Every crop actually has its own special features when it comes to cultivation and harvesting. To ensure that everything runs smoothly, it is worth investing the time in advance. First of all, it is important that you are aware of how your plant is pollinated. Is it a cross-pollinator or a self-pollinator? If it is a cross-pollinator, is it pollinated by the wind or by insects?
To exchange ideas with other gardeners and benefit from the experiences of others, you can visit our Fryd community. Surely someone has already grown their own seeds and can give you some tips.
Join the Community NowSelf-pollinating plants such as tomatoes, beans, peas or lettuce do not need foreign pollen, but fertilization from other plants of the same species is possible. By isolating plants of the same species, cross-pollination of foreign genetic material can be prevented. Propagating self-pollinated plants in private gardens is relatively simple.
In this case, the plant is dependent on the pollen of another plant for fertilization. The pollen is carried to the flower either by the wind or by pollinating insects, which makes cross-pollination much more likely. If you have several plants of the same species in your garden, the individual varieties should be isolated with a crop protection net. However, the problem here is that insects are also kept away for pollination. To ensure pollination, you should therefore place pollinating insects under the netting. In addition, cross-pollinators are more susceptible to inbreeding effects. Therefore, a somewhat larger population of at least 50 plants is necessary to avoid this. For these reasons, the propagation of cross-pollinators is somewhat more difficult and therefore less suitable for maintenance in the hobby garden.
To prevent cross-pollination with other varieties of the same species, there are a few measures that will help you:
Choose a sufficiently large planting distance so that no pollen exchange can occur. You must choose a sufficient distance from all varieties of the same species. Swiss chard, for example, can also be fertilized by beet, as both belong to the Beta vulgaris species. Find out in advance which plants belong to the same species to prevent cross-pollination. The type of pollination plays an important role in the choice of plant spacing. Wind-pollinated species (at least 300 m/328 yd) require the greatest plant spacing, followed by insect-pollinated species (100 to 150 m/109 to 164 yd) and finally self-pollinated species (crop-specific row spacing).
If you do not have enough space to realize the planting distances, there is still the possibility of mechanical isolation of a culture with isolation tunnels. As already mentioned, you have to place pollinating insects under the culture net for cross-pollinators. Blowflies (Calliphora ssp. for carrots, cabbage and onions), solitary bees (Osmia rufa for composite flowers and cabbage) or bumblebees(Bombus terrestris for cucumbers, cabbage and carrots) are suitable for this. If there are only a few specimens, you can of course also pollinate the plants by hand with a small brush.
Here you will find general tips on how to successfully grow your own seeds:
When harvesting seeds, the right time is of the essence. If you harvest too early, the seeds are not yet fully ripe and may not be able to germinate. If, on the other hand, you are too late, the plant may have already sprouted its seeds and you will go home empty-handed. You need a little sensitivity to pick the right moment. The seed heads ripen on the plant until after flowering. You need to know whether your chosen plant is an annual or a biennial. Depending on whether it flowers in the first or second year. The seeds are harvested accordingly.
We wish you lots of fun and success with your seed production. Feel free to share your experiences of propagating old varieties with us and the Alphabeet community! If you have any questions or comments on this topic, please write to us at [email protected].
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Marie is an agronomist. She is particularly interested in the sustainable and organic cultivation of vegetables and other plants. In her own garden, she gained experience and likes to try things out to learn from nature. She is particularly interested in the values and principles of permaculture, in order to contribute not only to the well-being of nature, but also to the well-being of people and future generations.
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#gartenimwandel When we took over our allotment in February 2022, it was raining. Not just a little - it was one of those penetrating, wet days when you wonder if spring will ever come again. We had just signed the lease and naturally wanted to take another look at our garden straight away. But when we arrived, we were amazed: the small terrace in front of the gazebo had disappeared - completely under water. The path there: a lake landscape. Instead of strolling happily through the garden, we stood at the fence and looked at our new "water property". Without further ado, we drove to the nearest DIY store and bought two pairs of wellies. Only then were we able to set foot on our new piece of nature. The start was... let's say: damp. But we were not discouraged. With a pump, shovel and a lot of patience, we cleared away the standing water. And what emerged was a mixture of surprise and work: several layers of paving slabs, bricks, stones, garbage, scrap metal - the ground seemed to consist of everything but earth. The field was also a challenge. We cleared it of a thick layer of clay, the dreaded horsetail and the stubborn couch grass. To make life difficult for the horsetail in the future, we thoroughly loosened the compacted soil and mixed it with a special lime-quartz mixture. This laid the foundation for active soil life. We dug, cleared and sorted. The old arbor was demolished and rebuilt as a raised shed in another location. A new pergola was added, and a terrace in the sun was created in between, for which wine will one day serve as a natural canopy. The terrace in front of the arbor is also currently being reduced in size to create more space for greenery. Where the ground was once sealed, life is now growing again. Drainage pipes help the water to flow to where it is allowed to stay - into a small wetland where frogs and dragonflies have already moved in - or into large barrels from which it can be pumped if necessary. In addition, three 1,000-liter barrels collect rainwater for dry days (and future greenhouse irrigation). Everything is slowly taking shape: a greenhouse is planned, a pond, fruit trees and shrubs. The flower corner is also getting a makeover with small "hedges" and lovingly laid out stone corners for beneficial insects. There is still a lot to do. But when we walk through the garden today, with dirty hands and tired legs, we know: This place has changed - and we have changed with it.
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So lovelies, you're welcome to think I'm crazy or a bit ballaballa, but I actually sowed corn last night 🙈 And yes, I know it's far too late, but I had no other choice. The bed was actually the purest field horsetail and bindweed plantation 😖. I'd been cutting it out since March, but the stuff kept sprouting up so quickly that I couldn't keep up with it and then some unscheduled work got in the way. It is what it is and I've now declared it a sowing experiment 😉 Please keep your fingers crossed that I can still harvest corn this year, or do you think this experiment is completely doomed to failure? 🤔
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What does open-pollinated seed mean?
Open-pollinated seeds come from plants whose seeds can be reproduced. You can obtain seeds from these plants yourself and grow them again the following year.
Can I obtain seeds from all plants?
You can obtain your own seeds from heirloom, open-pollinated varieties. With F1 hybrids, it is not worthwhile as the seeds often no longer bear fruit. Pay attention to variety-specific characteristics and avoid cross-pollination.
How do I avoid cross-pollination during seed production?
Through spatial or mechanical isolation, e.g. the use of crop protection nets to keep out foreign genetic material.
Can I exchange the seeds I have obtained?
Yes, seeds obtained can be exchanged or given away at seed swaps or locally in the neighborhood.
What do I have to consider when harvesting seeds?
Timing is crucial: seeds harvested too early may not germinate, those harvested too late may already be lost. The maturity of the seeds varies depending on the plant species and variety.