Taro (Wildform)

Cultivation Break

Season Overview

Description

Taro, scientifically known as Colocasia esculenta, is one of humanity's oldest cultivated plants and plays a central role as a staple food, especially in the tropical and subtropical regions of the world. The plant is visually impressive with its enormous, heart- or arrow-shaped leaves, which have earned it the apt nickname "elephant ear." These leaves sit on long, sturdy stems that grow directly from the underground tuber. However, the real significance of the taro lies in its starchy tuber. This has a brownish, often fibrous or ring-shaped skin and flesh that can vary from pure white to cream-colored to a characteristic purple speckle, depending on the variety. In terms of taste, the cooked tuber is reminiscent of a mixture of potato and chestnut, often with a subtle nutty note. Botanically speaking, taro belongs to the arum family. This explains its rather inconspicuous flower, which consists of a yellowish spadix and a protective bract, but is very rarely seen in cultivation. An important feature of the entire plant is the presence of calcium oxalate crystals. These protect the plant from predators, but cause severe irritation of the mucous membranes in humans. For this reason, taro must not be eaten raw under any circumstances; only thorough cooking, steaming, or roasting renders the crystals harmless and makes the tuber a nutritious and versatile ingredient for hearty stews, purées, or even sweet desserts.

Growing tips

The schedule Bring forward: Indoors from February/March. The bulb needs a "head start" as it takes 7-9 months to mature. Planting out: Only after the Ice Saints (mid-May), when the night temperatures are stable above 12 to 15 °C. Harvest: October/November, as soon as the leaves turn yellow and before the first frost. Location & soil Light: Sunny to semi-shady and protected from the wind (otherwise the large leaves will bend). Soil: Heavy, loamy and extremely rich in nutrients. Sandy soils must be heavily enriched with compost. Spacing: Give each plant approx. 60 to 80 cm of space. The right care Warmth: 22 to 30 °C is ideal for germination. Water: The soil must never dry out. Taro loves "wet feet" and even tolerates slight waterlogging. Mulching helps to prevent evaporation. Fertilizer: As a heavy feeder, it needs liquid fertilizer every 2 weeks (nitrogen for leaves until August, then potassium for the bulb). Harvest & storage Harvest: Dig up carefully. Separate the large mother bulb and the small daughter bulbs (sprouts). Overwintering: Store the small children in sand in a dry and cool place (approx. 12 °C) for replanting the following year. Important safety advice Never eat raw! All parts of the plant contain calcium oxalate crystals, which are only destroyed by heat (cooking, frying, baking). Raw taro causes severe swelling in the mouth. If you don't have space in a bed, a 20-liter pot is ideal. The soil moisture and heat (black pot in the sun) are often much easier to control there than in the garden soil.

Details

Light requirement

Semi-shaded

Water requirement

Moist

Soil

Medium (loamy)

Nutrient requirement

High

Dark germinator

Germination temperature

22 - 28 °C (Degrees Celsius)

Plant distance

70 cm

Row spacing

70 cm

Seeding depth

8 cm