When planning an effective succession planting, there are several factors to consider to prevent soil depletion. Classifying plants into heavy feeders, moderate feeders, and light feeders is key to planning your garden beds throughout the year. In this article, we’ll explain what succession planting is and how you can plan an effective plan for your garden beds. Learn what heavy feeders, moderate feeders, and light feeders are. We’ll also provide you with a table where you can see the nutrient requirements of various crops at a glance.
Succession Planting refers to the practice of growing different crops on the same plot of land within a single growing season. For example, if you harvest potatoes in the spring and then immediately sow spinach in the same bed, that is succession planting. A well-thought-out plan helps you make the most of your growing space throughout the entire growing season.
With the right planning, it’s entirely possible to harvest fresh vegetables from your own garden almost all year round. Still, nature remains unpredictable: while good planning is the foundation, flexibility is key in gardening. It can always happen that plants grow poorly, get sick, or die. In such cases, even the best planning is of little help—you have to learn to adapt to the circumstances.
In addition to succession planting, you should also aim to make your garden beds as varied as possible over several years. The rotation of different crops over several years is called crop rotation. You can find more information on crop rotation in the vegetable garden here.
Across Central Europe, the growing season traditionally spans from April to November—but its duration has been increasing for decades. While it lasted fewer than 200 days in the 1960s, it rose to over 220 days by the 2010s. In 2024, it reached a record 248 days (Statista, 2025). Similar trends are visible in the United Kingdom, where the growing season has extended by nearly a month compared to the mid-20th century.
While these extra growing days seem encouraging at first glance, they are a direct consequence of climate change. This trend brings a suite of new challenges to the modern gardener:
While Northern and Central Europe benefit from a longer warmth window, the shift in Southern Europe is more complex. In regions like Spain or Italy, extreme summer heat often causes plant growth to stall in July and August. Gardeners there are increasingly relying on "shoulder seasons"—the early spring and mild autumn—to secure their harvests and avoid the peak summer droughts.
Despite these challenges, the current window offers a prime opportunity to cultivate a diverse range of crops. During the peak summer months, conditions are now reliably warm enough for heat-loving favorites like tomatoes, eggplants, squash, and peppers. As these are harvested in the fall, the lengthened autumns in the UK and Central Europe provide a stable window for winter crops—such as kale, leeks, or hardy salads—to establish themselves in your succession plan.
To succeed in this changing environment, precision is key. When designing your vegetable garden, you should carefully coordinate the optimal growing times for each cultivar. By planning with foresight, you can turn the challenges of a longer season into a productive, year-round harvest.
For effective succession planting, alternate between different crops in your beds: follow a moderate- or low-nutrient crop with a high-nutrient main crop. The main crop usually stays in the field the longest. Pre- and post-crops have a shorter growing period and must be adapted to the temperatures. After the sequence of pre-, main, and post-crops, the soil benefits from a break. For this, you can sow a cover crop that covers the soil but does not deplete its nutrients. This improves soil health.
The main crop can be either a summer or winter crop. In our climate, we usually plant a heat-loving main crop like tomatoes or zucchini in our home gardens during the summer and plan around that. To grow your own vegetables year-round, you can also plant winter main crops like cabbage. You can find more information about growing vegetables in winter here. To keep track of everything, it makes sense to note the sowing dates for the different types of vegetables in a calendar. That way, you’ll always know when to start growing seedlings or sowing seeds in the vegetable bed.
| Good preceding crops | Good follow-up crops |
|---|---|
| Field beans | Field beans |
| pea | pea |
| Lamb's lettuce | Lamb's lettuce |
| Herbs | Garlic |
| Kohlrabi | Herbs |
| Swiss chard | Kohlrabi |
| radishes | Swiss chard |
| Arugula | Phacelia |
| radishes | |
| Radish | |
| Arugula | |
| Spinach |
These three terms describe a plant’s general nutrient requirements. Of course, the concept of heavy, moderate, and light feeders does not fully capture the needs of individual plants. Many plants have specific requirements regarding the composition of the nutrients they receive from fertilizer. However, the division into these three categories provides a rough overview and also serves as a guide for garden bed planning. Here you will find a table summarizing heavy feeders, moderate feeders, and light feeders.
| Heavy feeder | moderate eater | Power thief | Green manure |
|---|---|---|---|
| eggplant | Flowers such as borage and marigolds | pea | buckwheat |
| Cucumber | Beans | Lamb's lettuce | Lupine |
| Potatoes | Strawberries | Garlic | Oil radish |
| Cabbage, especially head cabbage and leafy cabbage, such as cauliflower and kale | Fennel | Herbs such as basil, savory, dill, and tarragon | Phacelia |
| Pumpkin | Garlic | radishes | Mustard |
| leek | Kohlrabi | Lettuce (some varieties are also mid-season) | vetch |
| Corn | Swiss chard | Beans | |
| Bell pepper | carrots | ||
| Rhubarb | Radish | ||
| Sweet potato | Beets | ||
| Tomato | Arugula | ||
| Zucchini | parsnip | ||
| Celery | |||
| Spinach | |||
| Sunflowers | |||
| Onion |
Want to get to know your plants without digging through thick books? In the Fryd Lexicon, you’ll quickly find all the essentials about different plant types and varieties — from sowing, planting, and harvest times to companion planting, location tips, and care advice.
Explore the Lexicon NowDepending on the plant’s nutrient needs, you may need to prepare your garden bed so that enough nutrients are available to the plant throughout the growing season. With the no-dig method, you prepare your garden beds once a year with compost to last the entire season. Alternatively, you can also fertilize your garden beds depending on what you’re planting. Here are some tips on soil preparation and fertilization:
If you have any questions or comments, feel free to email us at [email protected]. Want to receive helpful gardening tips all year round and plan your own garden beds perfectly? Then sign up here or download the Fryd app for Android or iOS.
Fryd - Your Digital Garden Planer
Marie is an agronomist. She is particularly interested in the sustainable and organic cultivation of vegetables and other plants. In her own garden, she gained experience and likes to try things out to learn from nature. She is particularly interested in the values and principles of permaculture, in order to contribute not only to the well-being of nature, but also to the well-being of people and future generations.
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Hello, I’m really hoping for your advice on dealing with these caterpillars—I’m totally at my wits’ end: This week, I found several webs made by oak processionary moths in our garden. Now I’m really unsure whether I can still safely go into the garden, which is my everything. Has anyone here had any firsthand experience with these little creatures? According to media reports, you’re supposed to wear long sleeves and pants and keep your distance—and even then, the risk of allergic rashes, respiratory problems, and anaphylactic shock is still high. But keeping your distance isn’t that easy. There are many oak trees in our garden, and I’ve discovered webs in more than half of them, so it’s impossible to walk through while keeping my distance. Unfortunately, removing them isn’t that simple. All the webs are several meters up, so the cost of removal runs into the thousands. And I’m not the owner… I know the landlord is supposed to take care of it, and he’s been informed, but I don’t know if or when he’ll do anything about it. Has anyone had any experience with this in recent years—how big of a threat it really is when they’re up in the trees and you’re gardening underneath them? Best regards, Erbse
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Succession planting is the practice of alternating different crops in a garden bed over the course of a year, based on their nutrient requirements, to prevent the soil from becoming depleted.
Heavy feeders are plants with high nutrient requirements, such as cabbage and tomatoes. Moderate feeders have moderate nutrient requirements, and light feeders require only a small amount of nutrients.
For effective succession plan in your vegetable garden, plant either a moderate- or low-nutrient crop after a heavy-nutrient crop. Another option is to sow a green manure crop to improve soil fertility.
Succession planting prevents your soil from becoming depleted and losing too many nutrients. This helps maintain soil fertility in the long term.